Woodrow Wilson, I am here!
The wake-up call came at the expected time, so I cleaned up for the day, dressed, and headed down to elevator to breakfast. This time, I went all the way down to the basement level, and as I exited, I noticed "les toilettes" across from the elevator.
I walked over to the breakfast area, took a table, and an attendant asked if I wanted coffee, which I did. She soon brought it in a small, white pot. Among the offerings was a covered stack of crepes which were very good. I found fruit and yogurt, so I skipped cereal this morning. Next, I had eggs and sausage.
Breakfast at the Villa Beaumarchais
Most of the group soon arrived, and we were joined by a scattering of other tourists, but apparently not another group. As usual, we ate a good breakfast, and I garnered a supply of fruit, bread, and container cheeses to take back to my room for an evening snack. Soon, we were all there, but since I had finished, I went back up to the room to prepare for the day and hang some more hand-washings on the drying rack.
Louis had warned of a rainy forecast, so I brought my small umbrella along. I took the things that were already dry on the rack, set them on the bed, washed more socks in the sink, set them on the rack, and turned the timer on to dry them while I was away.
Then I was out the door and across to the elevator. The lift was slow to arrive, and I could watch it come up through glass doors. We were all down in the lobby and ready to go a little before the time came.
Louis led us out to the narrow street in front of the hotel, and we were in our usual seats as Nicolas drove us showly out of the Marais, southwest to Versailles. We crossed the River and were on a road that ran alongside the Seine for a long distance. We noticed the enormous morning flow of traffic into Paris from the suburbs (la banlieue). No wonder people preferred the Metro.
Since we were going in the opposite direction from the main flow, we did not experience jams, but the distance was lengthy and time-consuming and intersperced with heavily-wooded areas. The weather was overcast and dreary.
Some of our group had been to Versailles before, but not Chris and I. I related that when Ben and I had been here two years ago, we skipped the optional excursion to Versailles so we could spend our evening exploring Paris. We had walked from Angelina's on Rue de Rivoli all the way to the Ste. Chapelle, the Bird Market, and Notre Dame.
Then we had walked back across the Seine and found the restaurant that Jay Campbell recommended; that was Le Chien Qui Fume (The Dog That Smokes) which turned our to be a great place. We had eaten "pot dishes" such as "rabbit in mustard sauce."
Afterwards in a triumph of my French and our determination and ingenuity, we had bought subway tickets and made it back to the Pullman Bercy on the Metro. Those things were far more important to us than spending time on a long commute to Versailles with little time to tour it.
Today was different. Versailles was included in the tour and not an added option. Roadscholar had carefully scheduled Survey of France so we had enough time to visit places at a reasonable pace and really take them in.
We went through several forested areas before we finally approached a large square in front of the gilded gates of Versailles in the distance. Nicolas let us out well before we reached the Palace, and we walked carefully together across the enormous paved square. The gates and fences loomed prominently in front of us.
Versailles with forest in the distance and Paris on the far horizon
Hall of Mirrors is at back of central, square section.
This is the view from above and behind the Palace. We had come down the tree-lined boulevard to the left and had parked in the large square at its end. Most of our tour would be through the middle section at the center of this picture. Though we would not enter the wings, anyone can see how they still contribute to the privacy of the central area and the grounds. The Hall of Mirrors is at the very back of the square-shaped center, and the Orangerie where trees are stored for the winter is under the terrace at the bottom left of the picture. Our interior tour would consist of a walk in a U-shaped pattern from one side of the central palace to the opposite end--all on the second or main floor.
Our tour guide met us outside the Palace, and we listented patiently to her introductory remarks. It may not have been the height of tourist season, but several large groups and numerous individuals were converging on the square behind us and walking towards the gates. For this place, there seemed to be no "off season." I was glad I wore my red Mercier jacket, because it was cold, and I needed it.
We approach the Palace of Versailles!
Finished under Louis XIV in 1682, the Palace has 17 acres of floor space under roof, and the still-extensive grounds once covered 2,000 acres.
Areas being refurbished were hidden behind photo-covered screening.
The gilded gates of Versailles
To All the Glories of France
My attitude about the Palace of Versailles was basically that it was a famous piece of architecture where the treaty ending World War I had been signed. I wanted to see the house that Le Vau and Le Nôtre had designed for Louis XIV and where much French history transpired. This was where Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were living when the French Revolution began, and Napoleon and Josephine had lived here afterwards. For the moment, objections to the opulence took a back seat to the simple fact that we were tourists and wanted to see this famous place.
Louis XIV
Le Roi Soleil--The Sun King
If anyone took more pictures than I did, it was Paul.
I photographed rooms, paintings, statues, and exterior shots through windows to my heart's content. All that stood in my way was a great many people. Louis XIV made about as big an impression as The Sun king hoped he would.
Versailles is on high ground, and the distant views were impressive.
After going through a series of rooms, we arrived at the end of the hall and to an even more ornate gold leaf and cameo-themed square room. This is where the Palace turned left into the Hall of Mirrors at the back.
Here we caught our first glimpse of the Hall of Mirrors.
Empty in the afternoon
I was bursting with satisfaction!
"If My Friends Could See Me Now!"
When I did reach The Hall of Mirrors at the far end of the building, Miriam and I traded picture-taking with hall in the background. While I stood near open windows, I took pictures of the grounds which I found fascinating. Much renovation and construction were going on outside the palace, but all that would have to wait till later. For now, we went to the other end of the Hall, made a left turn, and gazed upon more awesome rooms where Marie Antoinette, Louis XVI, and later Napoleon and Josephine had held forth
.
These pictures are taken from the main floor of the central section near the end of our route.
Louis XVI's bedroom
Wet parterre gardens viewed from windows on the opposite (north) side of the Palace
Bedroom of Marie Antoinette
Nice fabric!
At bottom right, there is a semi-concealed door so the Queen could retreat to more private quarters.
Drawing Room of the Nobles of the Queen
Marie Antoinette and children
Room with restoration in progress
In such a large palace, restoration is continuous.
Coronation of Emperor Napoleon and Empress Josephine
Closer shot of the Coronation
Napoleonic battle scenes
I have long had an interest in this battle--when the French conquered Ottoman Egypt, only to have their fleet burned by the British in Alexandria, so escape became impossible. Then their army was wiped out by the Turks.
At long last, we emerged from the Palace of Versailles, took a few pictures in the front where red brick, red marble, and gilding beautify the exterior. Then we went around to the side and then the rear of the building to view the grounds and the work on the fountains. There the exterior of the palace was plain limestone.
Paul shoots the front façade
Paul shoots Gordon standing at front of Versailles in the Marble Court.
Checking out the grounds on the south side
What fascinated me was that this orangerie was tucked underneath the terrace! While the others stayed at the edge of the courtyard and took pictures of the palace, I worked my around to the outer extremity, so I could turn around and capture both the palace and the the lower level of the next courtyard and the orangerie placed under the first level behind glass doors which surrounded the lower section.
I walked to the end of the terrace, looked down, and saw the Orangerie below.
L'Orangerie de Versailles with Hall of Mirrors atop and in middle
Something remarkable about Versailles is an amazing winter storage facility for plants, and particularly orange trees, tucked under the terrace to preserve the view from the residence. It also has heat gain from the glass and warmth from the ground. Imagine--passive/solar design in 1682 which is still working! This orangerie is 7 1/2 acres in size and currently houses over 1,000 trees!
Summertime shot of orange trees on display
LOOK, MOM, PALM TREES AT THE SAME LATITUDE AS MONTREAL! The south edge of the terrace also contained large, understory glass doors and windows. With southern exposure and sheltered by wall from the north wind, these palm trees seem to be doing fine in November. In advance of a strong cold front, they can be moved inside those glass doors behind them.
We now walked slowly back to the bus. There had been nothing rushed about our time at Versailles, and I really appreciated that! Even now, I could not resist taking some parting pictures of the exterior.
Whole lotta workin' goin' on!
View across pond when it's NOT under construction
Exiting the grounds
Emerging and saying "Au Revoir, Versailles."
After a long, cool, overcast morning at Versailles, we returned to the bus for our return trip to Paris. Back we traveled through occasional suburbs intersperced with areas of dense forest. We did go near neighborhoods, but they did not go on forever but alternated with woods, fields, and undeveloped stretches of land. I admire the French for not allowing "urban sprawl" to cover their country. With an area slightly smaller than Texas and a population of 65 million, that is a major accomplishment.
As we came closer to central Paris, our highway paralleled the Seine River, and the views out the window, of the Eiffel Tower for instance, were so clear, Chris and I shot many pictures from the bus, and as we approached the Right Bank, Louis and Nicolas deliberately took us back to the Marais by a decidedly "scenic route." Instead of using the shortest way back, they took us by the Place de la Concorde, the Ritz Hotel, the Palais Garnier, numerous scenic buildings, and the Hard Rock Café. I continued to take pictures as we drove back to the Villa Beaumarchais.
Photos taken from bus on way back from Versailles
Riding along the Seine, we approached La Tour Eiffel.
We would return to the Eiffel Tower tomorrow afternoon.
La Place de la Concorde
This angle showed the Ritz Hotel under restoration with La Madeleine in the distance. The Ritz is to the left of and behind the fountain, with the Harry Winston signs.
During the French Revolution, the Paris guillotine stood here.
Church of La Madelenie--a replica of the Parthenon
Le Palais Garnier
Place de la République
Back at the hotel, we went to rooms briefly and returned to the lobby where Louis met us and led the way to our lunchtime destination, Les Bonnes Soeurs, near the Place des Voges. We walked over to Rue de la Turenne, went a short distance down a side street, and we were there.
Lunch at Les Bonnes Soeurs
The Menu at Les Bonne Soeurs
We enjoyed lunch very much, and chalkboard menu near out table was so extensive that I took a picture of it. When lunch was over, some parted company with us to do their own thing in the afternoon, but a majority of the group stayed with Louis and walked to the Place de La Bastille to catch the Metro for the Marmottan Museum.
We went down into the huge underground station, and Louis gave us instructions about going through the turnstiles, etc. He advised us to find seats in the cars if possible, but if we had to remain standing, to grab a bar or strap and hold on. He also warned us to secure our things and beware of pickpockets. Here we would board Line 1 and stay on it most of the way; he pointed to map and showed us the changes of stations.
Bastille Metro Station
Our goal was the Muette Station. On the way there, we would be going through another station named President Franklin D. Roosevelt. Something else I had noticed before we went through the turnstiles were several sets of musicians playing lovely music in the Paris subway. This would turn out to be a common occurrence.
Then after waiting a while, our train arrived, and our group boarded three different cars. As we entered, all seats were taken, and we had to grab onto rails. When we came to the next stop, enough people left to allow several of us to sit down. Eventually, Chris found a seat, and later so did I.
While I was still standing, I enjoyed looking down the length of the train and seeing how the tunnel curved way ahead of our car. Building this had to be one of the monumental engineering achievements of all time!
Rip complained about having to ride the subway, but I found this first Metro ride extremely valuable. I was glad to have an early lesson in subway travel. I would certainly benefit from this when the tour left, and I was still here. Louis stayed with us and made everyone feel secure.
When we exited at Station Muette, he led us across a park and on through this affluent section of Paris to the fine residence which had become the Marmottan Museum.
The Marmottan Museum has the world's best collection of Monets.
I shot a quick photo of the greeter and the exhibit sign.
A male museum attendant met us at the entrance, took our tickets, and brought us on inside. Louis stayed outside and showed us where to meet him across the street at the specified time. The poster by the entrance showed the name of this particular exhibit--Impression Soleil Levant. We would soon see the original! This is the very painting from which the Impressionist Movement derived its name! Monet painted this picture in Le Havre in 1874. Here we entered the museum; soon we checked our things just inside; picture-taking was not allowed.
Writing a blog almost a year after the experience makes me an "omniscient narrator," and as such I am going to say early in this description and right up front, "The Marmottan and the Musée de l' Orangerie are must-sees for fans of Monet while they are in Paris!"
Equipped with headphones, we descended the stairs to the basement to view a large collection of Monets. Passing numerous pictures of sunsets and sunrises from this exhibit, we viewed a number of pictures of water lilies--sometimes of the same scene at different times of day. Since no one was allowed to take pictures, I will show some of what we saw using Google Images.
Impression Le Soleil Levant
In the Basement...
Paris museums have to be good to keep up with the competition--1,000 others!
After seeing the wonderful pictures in the basement, we were free to explore the main floor and the upstairs. The stairway, the paintings, the furniture, the house itself were beautiful, but of all the things I saw besides the Monets, what impressed me most was an upstairs room full of Berthe Morisot paintings!
By a window upstairs, I looked at the street below and noticed Louis outside at the corner with a few of the group. This was about a half-hour before out deadline, so I continued to explore this wonderful place. It was great not to have to rush through it!
Finally, the Schullers and I exited and joined the "peleton." A few had gone back on their own, but it was a complicated subway route, and I was only too happy to stay with Louis and the majority and have his help going home.
The walk back to Muette was brisk and scenic as evening began to fall over this beautiful Parisian neighborhood. After a long return ride on a more crowded Metro, we arrived back at the Bastille Station and headed up Beaumarchais to the hotel. I was grateful for the two hours I would now have in my room. The Kratovils and Andrews and I were headed to that concert tonight, and now I could rest, clean up, and eat before we left. We were supposed to meet Louis in the lobby a little before 7:00.
The idea of going to a concert at the Sainte Chapelle came from an online exchange back in the States and earlier in the summer between the Andrews and me. I had posted information of the Roadscholar notice board about my ballet tickets in Bordeaux, and they, along with the Kratovils, liked the idea and bought tickets for the same performance. In turn, they told me they already had tickets to this Ste. Chapelle concert for our one free Paris night and invited me to join them. This I did.
So now we were about to go! This was to be a string ensemble performing Mozart's Requiem. Others on our tour tried to buy tickets when we told them about our plans, but by then it was sold out. So Chris Pendley was going to an opera at the Bastille, and Florence Gross was going to see the ballet Rain at the Palais Garnier. Others were simply eating out in the Marais.
We met Louis, and he walked us back to Rue de la Turenne. Past the church on the corner was a bus stop. When the right bus arrived, he took us aboard, bought our tickets, and told us to take this same line back to the hotel when the concert was over. Within fifteen minutes, we arrived at the stop right across the street from the Ste. Chapelle.
Ben and I had visited this awesome building with its amazing stained glass walls in 2012, I remained fascinated with St. Louis's private place of worship, and I was anxious to see it at night. Louis IX built it to house the Crown of Thorns.
The Sainte Chapelle
Side view
Louis got off the bus and came with us; little did I realize the surprise he had in store. He took us to the street door where the line was waiting and accompanied us through the courtyard and up to the chapel entrance. I knew he had visited more with the others about this and sensed that "something was up."
Chapel Entrance
Stone ribbing in roof of entrance
We entered the Lower Chapel, originally restricted to the King's guards and retinue. Here we saw the Statue of St.Louis.
The Lower Chapel
From here, we took the spiral stairs up to the Ste. Chapelle itself, where only the King used to worship. This was the level where the concert would be held. Louis walked in ahead of us and spoke to two of the attendants, whom he already seemed to know. Then they motioned for the five of us to come through the crowd. Next they took us to the very front row and seated us first! This was the little surprise that Louis had prepared. I was flabbergasted! I took the first seat at the end of the front row--on the wall side near the room where the musicians were preparing to enter.
View upon entering the upper room of the Sainte Chapelle
Louis said good-bye and reminded us of the number of the bus to take back. The chapel was lighted before the performance, and we were allowed to take pictures at this time but not after the music began. For a little while, I shot everything in sight. Mainly, I noticed that up close, things had not been completely restored but retained the aged look of walls that had come down through the centuries. I liked this. Since it was dark, I could not photograph the stained glass to best advantage, but this was still a unique view, and I knew I would be returning during the daytime.
I was this close to the performance platform.
Basically, we sat our steel folding chairs and applauded as the young musicians entered the altar area. They took their stations and proceeded to play Mozart's Requiem for most of an hour. The unrestored, faded frescoes of the high chapel and the soaring framework of the tall, soaring stained glass windows gave me plenty to look at as I savored the music.
We sat on a bench at the covered stop till the bus with our number finally arrived. Then we boarded, paid, and headed back to Rue de la Turenne. I soon noticed that the electronic signs which showed the next stop were not working right. The street names that flashed did not match the names I was seeing out the window at the stops. Knowing this, we watched carefully and did get off at the right place.
However, when we exited, it was dark, we were tired, and we walked right past the street we needed to turn on and went a block farther. For a moment, we were not sure what to do, but Joe and Len said we needed to turn right and walk over to Beaumarchais, turn right again, and we'd find Arquebusiers.
Since they had walked the area in the afternoon, they knew what they were talking about, and soon we did find the side street where our hotel was located. Suddenly, we were back at the Villa Beaumarchais, said our good-byes, and headed up to our rooms. SO ONCE AGAIN, a wonderful time had been had by all!
We found it!
Fin
Hors d'Oeuvres:
1. This entry turned out to be a precursor of things to come. Entries made in Paris were longer than I anticipated because there is so much to see and do in Paris!
2. I enjoyed watching televion in the French capital. One night, I watched President Francois Hollande being interviewed by a group of reporters. The format was relaxed, but the discussion which centered on le chômage (unemployment) was very detailed and informative. The French was way too fast for me to understand everything, but what impressed me was the hour-and-half show itself. I have never in my life seen an American president participate in such a lengthy exchange with reporters. I was favorably impressed with Hollande but even more so with a political climate that allowed this sort of thing to take place.
